Mr. Hidden Visits the Varsity Cinema

What experience can be declared more distinctly 21st Century than that of having your cell phone read your mind?

Earlier this week I took a shower that left me feeling particularly refreshed, and an image from the legendary Japanese animation Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away flashed in my head. I paused, feet stuck to the cold tile of my bathroom, entranced remembering the first time I stumbled upon this film on TV as a child. If you’re not familiar with it, Spirited Away is the story of a young girl who finds herself lost in a spirit realm. After her parents are turned into pigs by a witch, she must work in the witch’s bathhouse while she struggles to find a way to free her family and return to the human world. I would be remiss if I did not tell you that Studio Ghibli’s visual storytelling is nothing short of breathtaking.

Me after that shower.

Back in my bathroom I shook the thought away, the idea of streaming it online lingered. Imagine my surprise when, days later, an ad to see the film at the recently reopened historic Varsity Cinema found its way to me. Taking this as a sign, I bought a ticket to see it in person instead- I am glad I did.

Soon I was being delivered onto University Avenue (via Dart’s 60 bus line) to visit the appropriately named Varsity near Drake University. I passed across the 1930s terrazzo floor of the lobby into a bright mid-century inspired space buzzing with concessions orders. The “smallness” of the lobby struck me first, and then a thought.

I had never seen a movie in a theater like this before.

The Varsity has a long history- this building has kept this namesake since opening in 1938. The early era is responsible for the art deco influenced facade which was designed by Weatherell & Harisson. (Ironically Weatherell designed the eponymous apartment building at 4024 Grand Avenue that in-my-opinion looks like it belongs in literal Hollywood). The Varsity property would remain in business for over 80 years, at one time being owned jointly by Robert Fridley and Bev Mahon. Later Mahon, apparently a movie lover himself, would have full ownership and become known as “Mr. Varsity” until his death in 2009. (Apparently I stole the Mr. Name schtick, my apologies, Bev). Mahon’s family operated the theater until 2018. There would be a four year hiatus before rebirth via Des Moines Film came late last year.

In line for popcorn, every movie theater I have ever visited clicked through my mind. All of them a product of a post-automobile centered era- we all know them. The expansive, 10-20 screen behemoths that are sometimes lavishly themed as though designed for the Las Vegas strip (and instead built in every suburb in the country). The phrase “small business” is often used in a metaphorical sense. Here, the Varsity takes the term literally, but it is important to note that this does not come at the expense of a modern movie theater’s amenities. In this case smaller is better, my local dollars get to stay in local hands.

In fact the Executive Director of Des Moines Film Ben Godar spoke to this effect himself, just before the 1pm showing started. They’re proud to be able to offer things like digital ticket sales with seat selection, memberships, and alcohol at concession. The showing of Spirited Away that I attended was the first in a new set of programming dubbed “Cinema Clubhouse”- which is family oriented.

A screen capture from Spirited Away

This blog post is not a review or retrospective of Spirited Away, though seeing it here reminded me of just how rich the experience of a movie theater can be. It was extremely special to see the soft impressionistic colors that Studio Ghibli is known for on such a large screen. I found myself noticing little visual details that I hadn’t before- and the orchestral soundtrack made the journey of following the young girl Chihiro on her spiritual expedition that much more emotional.

If you intend to see a showing at the Varsity Cinema, I offer one tip, please arrive early. This is both for your own benefit and to that of other guests. Being a historic venue the seating here is a little more compact, which I don’t find to be an issue- however the new standard of assigned seating means that if you arrive after the house lights are turned down you’ll find yourself struggling to find your seat in a crowded room. In my time there, two guests found themselves in such a predicament and resorted to using their phone flashlights to find their way, accidentally blinding some who were already seated. This is easily mitigated by showing up on time.

The Varsity is a gem that deserves your patronage, not every community can say they have an 85 year old movie theater. Please visit them here, and follow them on Instagram.

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